Gems in Regency England

Good morning everyone! Recently, I stumbled down a research rabbit hole while writing my WIP and thought I would share.

I needed a gemstone that was semi-precious, something Mr. Bennet could gift to Elizabeth that an unwanted and controlling husband would not deem as worth anything—therefore, he would not confiscate it. After digging around, I found a few options.

There were the usual gems, the precious ones that we read about a lot. Diamonds, Sapphires, pearls, rubies, emeralds… these were too valuable for Mr. Bennet to give Elizabeth without risking them being taken. Topaz could work, as could garnet, amethyst, or jet. A 4 carat stone of each would be worth:

  • Topaz: £5 to £15
  • Garnet: £3 to £8
  • Amethyst: £5 to £12
  • Turquoise: £2 to £6
  • Jet: £1 to £4

I needed something that Elizabeth could sell if she found herself in need of escape, but it had to be

A pearl regency style necklace

something her controlling husband would not confiscate. It also needed to reflect her state of mind—and that of Mr. Bennet. Having been placed in an untenable situation, both struggled with depressed spirits.

 

After leaning heavily towards jet, which was heavily used for mourning jewelry, I stumbled upon another gemstone: spinel. Spinel is a precious gemstone that is often mistaken for ruby due to its similar color, especially in its red form. However, spinel is a distinct mineral, and its name comes from the Latin word “spina,” meaning thorn, referencing its sharp crystal points. It has been used in jewelry for centuries, but it was often confused with other gemstones like ruby, as they can appear quite similar in color.

It was fascinating, but a 4 carat red spine

Spinel of all colors

lt would have been taken immediately, especially if it was mistaken for a ruby. Then, I found black spinel. They are described as quite striking, and nowadays it is prized for its rich, deep black color and excellent brilliance. It is an 8 on Mohs hardness scale, making it suitable for use in jewelry, much like its red cousin. Black spinel was less known than red or blue spinel in the 1800s but still ahd a place in fine jewelry.

Jet is a type of lignite (a precursor to coal), jet was popular for mourning jewelry, particularly in the form of brooches, necklaces, and earrings. Its deep black color made it suitable for somber occasions and memorial pieces.

Even better was when I compared a picture of cut jet to cut spinel. They looked very similar, and to an untrained eye, it was easy to assume that the black spinel gem was the less-valuable jet. Can you tell which is which when they are placed side by side?

 

Anyway, I digress…

Here’s a brief summary of the value of Black Spinel. I chose the year 1807 for my search because that is when this particular scene takes place.

Value of Black Spinel in 1807 England:

As with other varieties of spinel, the value of black spinel in 1807 would have been influenced by several factors:

  1. Rarity: Black spinel, while available, was not as common or as famous as red spinel, which was often mistaken for rubies. However, black gemstones have always had a certain appeal due to their versatility and elegant appearance.
  2. Durability and Quality: Black spinel has a high level of durability, making it valuable for use in rings, brooches, and other jewelry. The cut, clarity, and overall appearance would significantly affect the price.
  3. Fashion Trends: During the Regency era, black gemstones like jet were particularly fashionable for mourning jewelry, while other black stones, such as black diamonds, also gained some popularity. While black spinel was not as famous as some other gemstones, its use would still have been appreciated by those seeking elegant and durable alternatives.

Approximate Value:

  • In 1807, black spinel would have been considerably less expensive than ruby or sapphire. The cost of a 1-carat black spinel might have ranged between £1 and £5, depending on the quality, with larger stones like a 4-carat black spinel likely priced between £5 and £20 (though possibly higher for fine cuts or if set in more elaborate jewelry).
  • For a 4-carat black spinel in 1807 England, a rough estimate would place the value between £5 and £20 or possibly more, depending on the craftsmanship, quality of the stone, and how it was set into jewelry. This price would still be considerably more affordable compared to precious gemstones such as diamonds or rubies, which were much rarer and more expensive.

    Cut black spinel

    Cut jet

 

It was PERFECT! Mr. Bennet gifted Elizabeth a 4 carat black spinel of excellent quality, set in silver with a thick silver chain. When her unwanted husband asks about it, she claims that it is jet—almost of no value—worthless to him. He does not second-guess it, and she gets to keep the necklace as a lifeline—something she can sell if she needed to make a quick escape and had no funds to do so.
So, what do you think? I never knew there was such a wide variety of gemstones, and some were not terribly expensive. Do you think Mrs. Bennet had jewelry made of less expensive jewels?

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