A Walk up Beechen Cliff

“They determined on walking round Beechen Cliff, that noble hill whose beautiful verdure and hanging coppice render it so striking an object from almost every opening in Bath.” – Northanger Abbey

 

 

 

 


beechen-hanger

On a trip to Bath a couple of summers ago, I was fortunate to visit an old “friend in Jane,” another Jane – Jane Odiwe, the well-known Austenesque author and artist. Nothing could be more delightful than to spend time in such a fashion, and my memories of every detail are precious. I had visited that beautiful city several times before, but knew that to see it through the eyes of an enthusiast as knowledgeable as Jane would be a special privilege.

It was a bit of a scramble dragging my suitcase through Paddington, but the train ride was restful and lovely, gliding through the green English countryside with clouds changing every minute, and flowers nodding by the sides of the train.  On arrival, I was immediately struck with the freshness and restfulness of Bath after London: the air is purer, and the small, compact, hilly city, enfolding spots of greenery, looked really lovely, in cool sunny weather with a few clouds and the breeze changing every minute and June flowers everywhere – roses and foxgloves, forget-me-nots and geraniums.

beechen-flowers

Jane’s home is most beautiful. The building was here in Jane Austen’s day and is so near the house at 4 Sydney Place where Austen lived, you can see into the garden. With her historical eye and artistic sense, Jane has made her home reflect the beauty and the spirit of Austen’s time. It was a rare treat for the mind, eye, soul, and more prosaically, stomach, to sit and enjoy the elegant English tea she so generously laid out, on exquisite and authentic Burleigh willow ware.  Shrimps and salad, cake and tea, while we talked a mile a minute about Austenesque writing, mutual friends, family, and aspirations – it was almost too much delight to take in!

beechen-tea-jane

Jane thought I must need to rest after my journey, but I could not wait to be afoot with my hostess in Bath. Asked what I hoped to see, I begged at once to be taken up Beechen Cliff where Jane Austen (always a great walker) had climbed! I had seen the major sights of the city on previous visits, but had never done this walk and was inspired by a blog Jane (Odiwe not Austen!) herself had recently written. Since she had made the climb so very lately, it was most generous of her to undertake it again so soon, for my satisfaction.

beechen-jacobsJacob’s Ladder, the stairs on the way up Beechen Cliff

Of course, like many another Austen pilgrim, and much in the spirit of all those who go to Lyme to see the spot where Louisa Musgrove fell, I wanted to go to Beechen Cliff in honor of the scene in Northanger Abbey where clever Henry Tilney teaches the naive Catherine about artistic views and perspective:

The Tilneys…were viewing the country with the eyes of persons accustomed to drawing, and decided on its capability of being formed into pictures, with all the eagerness of real taste. Here Catherine was quite lost. She knew nothing of drawing — nothing of taste: and she listened to them with an attention which brought her little profit, for they talked in phrases which conveyed scarcely any idea to her. The little which she could understand, however, appeared to contradict the very few notions she had entertained on the matter before. It seemed as if a good view were no longer to be taken from the top of an high hill, and that a clear blue sky was no longer a proof of a fine day. She was heartily ashamed of her ignorance.

beechen-halfway-meHalfway up – it was quite a steep hike!

[Catherine] confessed and lamented her want of knowledge, declared that she would give anything in the world to be able to draw; and a lecture on the picturesque immediately followed, in which his instructions were so clear that she soon began to see beauty in everything admired by him, and her attention was so earnest that he became perfectly satisfied of her having a great deal of natural taste. He talked of foregrounds, distances, and second distances — side–screens and perspectives — lights and shades; and Catherine was so hopeful a scholar that when they gained the top of Beechen Cliff, she voluntarily rejected the whole city of Bath as unworthy to make part of a landscape. Delighted with her progress, and fearful of wearying her with too much wisdom at once, Henry suffered the subject to decline, and by an easy transition from a piece of rocky fragment and the withered oak which he had placed near its summit, to oaks in general, to forests, the enclosure of them, waste lands, crown lands and government, he shortly found himself arrived at politics; and from politics, it was an easy step to silence.

beechen-and-janeDiana and Jane at the top of Beechen Cliff

The walk certainly proved to be one of the most satisfying walks of my life. We probably walked several miles – four hours, all told – right up the wooden stairs known as Jacob’s Ladder, shaded by beech trees (from which the name is derived), and along the forested cliff, or hangar, where spread out before you is the magnificent prospect of Bath, as described by Jane Austen. It was a complete thrill, exhilarating and beautiful and flowery and wild and 18th century and divine. The walk reminded me a bit of the hangar at Selbourne, Gilbert White’s house, equally unspoiled, where the modern world recedes completely.

After enjoying the views, taking pictures, and smelling the wild garlic for which the hill is famous, we walked down, returning alongside the Kennet & Avon canals – and still walking in the steps of Jane Austen.

beechen-kennet-canal-boatsKennet and Avon Canal boats

 

 

15 comments

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    • Beatrice on September 16, 2016 at 4:16 am
    • Reply

    It’s a lovely walk, isn’t it? And such a thrill to be walking in literary footsteps. Your post brings back such memories.
    My cousin lives on Beechen Cliff; when I stayed with her, I loved watching her husband exercise the dog by dropping a ball over the balcony, then waiting 15 minutes for the dog to race down the hill and back up after retrieving the ball. The family keep a netted cover over their fishpond so the eagles don’t eat the fish. They look out the kitchen window at the sheep on the next hill moving in unison as if a giant organism.
    If a time machine brought Catherine Morland or Jane Austen back to Bath, they could feel very much at home along Beechen Cliff.

  1. What a marvelous memory to have, Beatrice! But anybody who has made this walk, will always remember it…all the more if they know their Jane Austen.

  2. I would love to do that walk next time I get to Bath. I’m a little worried, though. Sounds like it’s more of a “climb” than a easy stroll. I might poop out before I got to the top!

    1. You, Shannon, who live in sight of Mt. Rainier! Trust me, Beechen Cliff is a doddle compared to that!

  3. I loved seeing you Diana and have very fond memories of all our time spent together! I’m very happy to accompany anyone who comes to Bath up Jacob’s Ladder… : )

    1. I hope to take you up on that one day, Jane!

      1. Yes, anytime you’re in Bath let me know Shannon!

    • Caitlin Williams on September 17, 2016 at 8:27 am
    • Reply

    Thanks for a lovely article, Diana.
    I must add this walk onto my Austen to-do list

    1. It’s great because you get such a gorgeous overview of Bath, Caitlin. Highly recommend it!

    • Gwyn on September 17, 2016 at 10:46 pm
    • Reply

    What a gorgeous day you had! So envious. Definitely need to add this to my list. Thank you so much!

    1. Bath is so lovely – glad you enjoyed the post!

    • Deborah on September 20, 2016 at 5:37 am
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    Thank you so much for sharing. Your descriptions are beautiful and the pictures are helping me see what you are writing about. I am hoping one day to go back to England and to visit Bath. This walk has been added to my to do/visit list

  4. Glad you enjoyed it – and Bath is so beautiful, with its old buildings, lovely walks, and Jane Austen associations, that a visit to Bath is worth making top priority on any trip to England.

    • Sarah on October 3, 2016 at 6:17 am
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    This was a great little travelogue. Thank you!

    1. Thanks, Sarah – it was fun to do, too!

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