A walk in Kent in Jane Austen’s footsteps

Welcome to All Things Austen in April! Today Abigail Reynolds takes us on a walk in Jane Austen’s footsteps in Kent.


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Goodnestone Park

In 1796, Jane Austen spent several months in Kent visiting her brother, Edward Austen Knight, and his wife, Elizabeth, whose parents lived at Goodnestone (pronounced gun-stun) Park. It’s easy to imagine Jane Austen dancing the night away at Goodnestone Park, but Jane actually stayed with her brother at Rowling House, a manor house a short walk from Goodnestone. According to her letters, she walked from Rowling to Goodnestone most days. “We were at a Ball on Saturday. We dined at Goodnestone and in the Evening danced two Country Dances and the Boulangeries. I opened the Ball with Edwd Bridges…We supped there, and walked home at night under the shade of two Umbrellas.”

There’s lots of information and pictures of Goodnestone out there, but I couldn’t find much information about Rowling House. That would simply not do! So when I visited Goodnestone, I decided to retrace Jane Austen’s footsteps, although not at night nor under an umbrella. I took plenty of pictures so you could enjoy the walk with me!

Map of walk - Goodnestone is on the left, Rowling on the right. The red dotted pathways are footpaths.

Map of walk – Goodnestone is on the left, Rowling on the right. The red dotted pathways are footpaths.

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Holy Cross Church, Goodnestone

Starting at Goodnestone House, I walked down The Street (yes, that’s actually the name of the road!) through Goodnestone village, past Holy Cross Church and The Fitzwalter Arms pub.

The Fitzwalter Arms, previously the gatehouse of Goodnestone Park

The Fitzwalter Arms, previously the gatehouse of Goodnestone Park

Houses on The Street, Goodnestone

Houses on The Street, Goodnestone

The village doesn’t look quite the same as it did in Jane Austen’s time, as the picturesque windows in most of the houses were added later. Part way through the village, I turned onto a public footpath leading through a field. For those of you who aren’t familiar with the UK footpath system, Wikipedia says, “In England and Wales a public footpath is a path on which the public have a legally protected right to travel on foot and in some areas public footpaths form a dense network of short paths. It is probable that most footpaths in the countryside are hundreds of years old.” When Elizabeth Bennet walked to Netherfield and got a petticoat six inches deep in mud for her pains, she would have been walking on footpaths like these.

The footpath is visible through the field

The footpath is visible through the field

Along the footpath

Along the footpath, looking back toward Goodnestone

View to the left with traditional Kentish oasts (pointy buildings)

View to the left with traditional Kentish oasts

Signs after emerging from the footpath

Signs after emerging from the footpath

I approached Rowling House on a country lane. Like many British country houses, it’s difficult to get a glimpse of Rowling because it’s surrounded by hedges. Fortunately, it had yet another footpath running behind it, so I could at least see the back of it.

First glimpse of Rowling House

First glimpse of Rowling House from road

Rowling House from the rear

Rowling House from the side

Rowling House from the rear

Rowling House from the rear

That was all lovely, but I still didn’t know what the house looked like from the front, as Jane Austen would have seen it on her walks. Luck was with me, though. As I walked back past the entrance to the house, a kind gardener took pity on me and allowed me to walk a few feet up the drive so I could at least see it from a distance. I’ve also cropped and enlarged the picture so you can see some details.

Front of Rowling House, courtesy of a kind gardener

Front of Rowling House, courtesy of a kind gardener

Same picture, cropped and enlarged

Same picture, cropped and enlarged

What about the interior of Rowling? After much hunting, I found a description of the interior by the colorful Baroness Trumpington who lived at Rowling House in the 1930s: “You entered the property via the hall, which had a large inglenook fireplace and an incredible Charles II staircase. This led off to the dining room and study; the servants’ quarters were in their own wing at the back. Upstairs was a double drawing room, and a corridor led to my mother’s bedroom on the left, and two bathrooms.” For a less personal view, since it’s a listed historic building, we know a little from the formal description from the listed building database:

C16, clad C18 and extended mid C19. Timber framed and clad with
painted brick and extended with buff brick. Slate roofs. Two storeys and
attic on plinth with boxed eaves to hipped roof with 2 flat roofed dormers
and stack to centre right. Five glazing bar sashes on first floor and 4 on
ground floor with gauged heads. Central door of 6 raised and fielded panels.
Extended to left by 2 separately roofed 2 storey blocks, that immediately
adjacent with dogtooth cornice and gable, that at end left hipped, with
stacks to left and rear left and with 1 glazing bar sash on each floor of
each block. Projecting 2 storey hipped bay on right return. Exterior being
in part repaired at time of survey. Interior: exposed frame with stop
moulded joists in main hall, with inglenook fireplaces. Sunk panelling in
Dining room, and moulded C18 wooden fire surrounds. Open well with dogleg
late C18 stair and newel stair. Clasped purlin roof. The house was anciently
a manor house, then belonged to the Bridges family of Goodnestone Park, and
let to Edward Austen (later Edward Knight of Godmersham Park), Sir Brook
Bridges’ son-in-law and Jane Austen’s brother. The house and locality feature
prominently in Jane Austen’s correspondence, 1791-7, and her works. A later
tenant was George Dering (c.1800), a link which may explain the Dering windows
and Pluckley-style architecture of the early C19 Goodnestone estate style of
buildings.

The name Rowling makes me wonder. I often take names for places and characters from maps or signs I see, and I’ve strongly suspected Jane Austen did the same ever since discovering the real-life Earl Fitzwilliam lived in Wentworth Woodhouse (no, I’m not making that up!). Rowling sounds awfully close to Rosings, and they’re both located in Kent.

If you enjoyed this little ramble in Jane’s footsteps, you might like this post about Hertingfordbury, a village she visited in Hertfordshire.

Food for thought: Last year when I visited Goodnestone Park with Susan Mason-Milks and Elaine Sieff, we asked Lady Fitzwalter, who was taking tickets from garden visitors, about the extensive renovations being done on the house. She told us it was being renovated to be used as a holiday rental property. Apparently it’s going to be available starting this summer. What a treat that would be! I’ll leave you with a few pictures of the stunning gardens at Goodnestone Park for your daydreaming pleasure. And don’t forget to comment for a chance to win one of the Austen in April prizes!

57 comments

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  1. Thank you for the article. The pictures were gorgeous.

    1. So glad you enjoyed it!

    • talietha on April 4, 2016 at 6:40 am
    • Reply

    A lovely walk thankyou for sharing, as it’s about as close as I’m going to get.

    1. I’m glad you could see this much, then!

    • Maggie on April 4, 2016 at 6:50 am
    • Reply

    I enjoyed the pictures so much. Just back from London but didn’t have any days like this. Thanks for the article

    1. I tend to seek out the obscure things when I travel, but that sometimes means I miss the big thing. I haven’t made it to London on my last two trips.

    • Kristine Shore on April 4, 2016 at 7:28 am
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    Thank you for the lovely pictures. It is interesting to see the other areas of England that one isn’t always able to visit when on vacation.

    1. There’s so much to see in England that none of us can even scratch the surface, I think.

    • Mari on April 4, 2016 at 7:37 am
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    What gorgeous pictures and homes. I would not mind living in any of them. It would be fun to visit such a beautiful place in person, but these amazing photos make a very good substitute in the meantime. Thank you for sharing your adventures and these pictures.

    1. My pleasure. I’d love to live there, too!

    • JerryT on April 4, 2016 at 7:38 am
    • Reply

    Marvelous story and pictures!

    1. Thanks!

    • Theresa M on April 4, 2016 at 8:28 am
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    Thanks for sharing these photos…I particularly liked seeing what a footpath looked like. Now I understand all that mud!

    1. I love walking English footpaths – they’re an experience we don’t have at all in the US. This one was particularly tidy; like Elizabeth Bennet, I’ve ended up with my blue jeans 6 inches deep in mud (or worse!).

    • Kirk on April 4, 2016 at 9:19 am
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    Much needed warmer weather images, thank you!! In the Hub we are getting more April snow….ugh!!! My guess is that you might be getting some “lovely” cold rain? Good day to be inside and write.

    1. We do need some warm weather, don’t we? It’s been snowing here all day, snowed yesterday, is going to snow tomorrow – my poor 6 inch high pea plants are not amused!

        • Michelle H on April 4, 2016 at 5:36 pm
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        Gosh, I don’t miss the long winters the Northeast so ‘enjoys.’ It’s been ‘Chamber of Commerce Weather’ here in central Texas for a few weeks but we know it’s going to turn ugly hot very soon. So on one hand, I feel for y’all and remember the winters with a shudder, but on the other hand this gorgeous weather here won’t last long at all so I’m reveling in it, and trying to steel myself to the reality of the heat coming and once again promising myself I won’t complain, I won’t complain, I won’t complain. Cuz, it just makes it worse to whine. (For me, that is.)

        I really enjoyed this post. The pictures, the historical info, your personal experiences. Just plain lovely. Thank you!

        1. I’d love to have a little of your Texas weather right now! It just started snowing again, big huge flakes!

    • Nancy Duell on April 4, 2016 at 9:28 am
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    Beautifiul pictures of England. I cannot wait to visit …someday. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. Snow in Lake George NY as well on April 4th!!!!

    1. Snow in Lake George, too? Crazy!

    • Hollis on April 4, 2016 at 9:52 am
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    Thank you, it is so different from where I am. So green and pretty, with trees and beautiful flowers. It is odd to be able to walk to town, as our towns are so far apart.

    1. It’s very different from where I live, too. At Goodnestone I was staying at a B&B in the village of Nonington, and I walked the mile from there on footpaths as well.

    • Carole in Canada on April 4, 2016 at 10:44 am
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    Fascinating post! I love these beautiful manor homes and to be able to see them is such a treat. I love to watch the British shows that show people restoring these Grade I/II listed homes. The amount of time, effort and money is incredible! Love the garden pictures!

    1. Every so often I see one of those manor houses for sale for what seems like a ridiculously low price, and then I remember that it probably takes far more than the selling price just to keep it up! Not to mention all the gardeners and servants you’d have to hire…

        • Anji on April 9, 2016 at 3:32 am
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        Thanks for such an interesting post Abigail. Although I’m born, bred and live in the UK, the South isn’t an area I know well at all. Brought up in the East Midlands and living the vast majority of my life in Yorkshire, there’s always been the obstacle of London to get around in order to visit Kent plus a considerable amount of time spent travelling.

        Another problem in buying one of these apparently cheap country houses is not just the general maintenance costs. Many have become quite delapidated over the years but if they have “listed” status, then repairs and restoration have to be carried out to set standards and often using a restricted range of materials. This obviously makes it a rather expensive prospect.

    • Linda A. on April 4, 2016 at 10:56 am
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    Great pictures — it is nothing like what I imagined. Thank you for sharing!

    1. Glad you enjoyed it!

    • Stephanie L on April 4, 2016 at 11:11 am
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    Some day…when I grow up…I would love to go over and just ramble on footpaths and see these beautiful places. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

    1. Oh, I do hope you can, Stephanie!

  2. I loved seeing the photos, especially of the gardens at the end. Oh, for sufficient water in Southern California to be able to pull off this kind of garden!! 😀

    The footpath system looks amazing!! I would love to just amble along them, wheresoever they may lead!! 😀

    Thanks, Abigail!!

    Warmly,
    Susanne 🙂

    1. The Goodnestone gardens are gorgeous – I could go there every day. I only wish I had the green thumb and the patience to make my own few feet of garden look half that nice!

    • Michelle on April 4, 2016 at 2:44 pm
    • Reply

    What a wonderful ramble and beautiful pictures. Wish i could time travel back for a sneaky look!

    1. Me too! 🙂

    • Renee Sharpe on April 4, 2016 at 2:52 pm
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    Stunning photos! I feel like I am there. Thank you so much for doing this.

    1. Glad you enjoyed it!

    • Sarah B on April 4, 2016 at 3:41 pm
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    Thank you for the Pictures and information. They are lovely pictures, and I enjoy hearing where Jane might have gotten her inspiration from.

    1. It’s all just a guess, but I do wonder!

    • Sana on April 4, 2016 at 3:53 pm
    • Reply

    How fascinating! Thank you for this piece:)

    1. Glad you enjoyed it.

    • Gwyn on April 4, 2016 at 9:22 pm
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    Thank you so much for the informaton and the photos of your lovely walk! You were blessed with good weather and good fortune. So envious. I’ll have to settle for rereading “Conquering Mr. Darcy” for the umpteenth time. 🙂

    1. Good weather, but it was actually quite hot – early July of 2014, a record hot day for Kent, and I actually ended up with mild heat exhaustion from that walk because I hadn’t brought clothes suitable for weather over 80 degrees. It had never even crossed my mind to worry about being seriously overheated in the UK! 😉

    • BeckyC on April 5, 2016 at 9:40 am
    • Reply

    Thank you for taking us on this beautiful stroll. Amazing!

    1. My pleasure!

    • Deborah on April 5, 2016 at 2:24 pm
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    Thank you for taking us on this walk with all these pictures to show us where Jane trod. A lovely walk. I love the do clarified in names and the supposition of where some of her names of places and characters May have orginated. Perhaps one day we may get to stay at Goodnestone Park.

    1. Wouldn’t that be wonderful?

    • Rosa on April 5, 2016 at 6:00 pm
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    What a kind thought to share with us your walk! I imagined how thrilled you should have been.It reminds me of our 2007 ‘Jane Austen’s tour’with my best friend. We were in the lane from Steveston church looking for THE field where stood Jane’s rectory. We took my photos not knowing if it was the good place (though we had strong suspicions) !

    1. I know just what you mean! I was fortunate enough to go to Steventon with someone who knew where the rectory had been, but it would be hard to guess it otherwise!

    • Diana Birchall on April 5, 2016 at 11:12 pm
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    I had tea with Lady Fitzwalter at Goodnestone way back in the 1990s…she was much younger then, well, we all were! I believe she recently passed away. Yes, here’s the obituary:

    http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/11858815/Margaret-Lady-FitzWalter-obituary.html

    Nice lady. And yes, wouldn’t it be wonderful to stay there! Great research, Abigail, enjoyed it very much.

    1. I hadn’t heard she’d passed away. That was just a couple of months after I saw her. I hope they’ll keep the gardens going.

      It must have been quite an experience for you. I remember seeing a JASNA tour that was going to Goodnestone for tea a few years back and wishing I could go.

    • Kay on April 6, 2016 at 2:52 pm
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    Gorgeous pics and love the post! I’m off again in 3 weeks but this time (very very unusually) confined to London. I will have a couple free days and hope to whiz down to Kent for some necessary country scenery. Hope I get weather like you did in these pics! Are you off this June again to the UK? Always look forward to your pics!

    1. I hope you make to to Goodnestone Park! This year I’m scheduled to go to the UK in September for the JA Festival in Bath, but I’m still working out what might happen from there.

    • Glynis on April 7, 2016 at 11:22 am
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    Lovely photos thank you. Considering I have lived in England all my life I have seen very little. My only visit to Kent was in 1972 when I spent a week in Canterbury. It looks lovely and I would love to be able to stay in somewhere like Goodnestone. Thanks again 😊

    • Wendy on April 9, 2016 at 11:14 am
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    Beautiful. Thanks for sharing your photos and rambles with us.

    • Sheila L. M. on April 13, 2016 at 2:04 pm
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    Just getting to read this. The gardens are especially lovely. How fortunate we are to be able to read as you share with us the location, names, histories in that locale. Thank you. All your photos are a joy to gaze upon.

    • Beatrice on April 26, 2016 at 5:51 pm
    • Reply

    How lovely to hear of your explorations and walk. How long a walk was it that Jane Austen made to those dances and under those two umbrellas? Any idea of the distance or could you say how long it took you?
    Thanks!

    1. It was about 1.25 miles each way. I call it a very easy distance. 😉

    • jaine on October 28, 2021 at 10:29 am
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    Dear Abigail
    I have just located this Blog from way back in 2016. I am now living close to Goodnestone – and I Volunteer in the gardens – its a dream.
    I have always been interested in research and this gave me an opportunity to find out more about the movements of Jane Austen and her relationship with Goodnestone.. hence I ended up finding you online. So now, I know where Rowlings actually is, and where Edward Knight lived – I can answer some of the questions I get when people walk around the gardens. When my back is better – having gardened rather too enthusiastically in early October! I will take the walk across the fields and hope for a glimpse. Thank you for sharing your visit whilst in the UK. Take good care.

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